The first snow of the season arrived today. Unlike last year’s opening blizzard (which dumped 8 inches overnight), this is a mellow snowfall, which should max out at 3 inches. Sarah and Griffin are missing it while they galivant around the Bay Area, but I suspect there will be plenty more white stuff to play in when they return.
Just an hour from the Twin Cities lies a site that is definitely cooler than the Colossus, more magnificent than the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (who’s heard of that anyway?), and nearly as charged with New Age Energy as the Great Pyramid. Plus it is toddler-friendly, has pink picnic tables, and is totally entirely FREE.
See for yourself:
The Refrigerator
At first glance this mid-size, older model fridge might not appear to be in the same class as the Hanging Gardens, but look more closely:
The Sign
Are you kidding me? In post-Jerry-Garcia America there’s an unlocked, unattended refrigerator filled with Freezee Pops and a “Suggested Donation” sign? Even after wandering the rest of this amazing, soul-salving site, I think this fridge did the most to reaffirm my faith in humanity.
Ok, enough shenanigans. It’s taken me a while to post the pics, but earlier this month we drove out to the Franconia Sculpture Park with Griffin and had a fabulous day. For those of you not in the know, it’s a 20-acre site in the middle of nowhere (by urban standards—cornfields all ’round), filled with incredible, humongous modern sculpture. Places like this make Minnesota oh-so-easy to fall in love with.
Here are some of our favorite pictures. Click to expand.
Alas, we didn’t write down the names of these things. But isn’t this cool?
The luggage incident was, of course, only a small part of our time in France. This was the second part of our Fabulous European Wedding Tour, and it was my (Andrew’s) first time in France. We were staying just outside of a small town called Cordes sur Ciel (built in 1222, perched on a hill, cooler than cool) about an hour from Toulouse in southern France.
When we were planning the trip my good friend James, the groom, knew that we were on a very tight budget, so he kindly suggested that we could stay in the neighbor’s “pigeonier.” I looked up the word and discovered that a pigeonier is more commonly known, in English, as a “dovecote.” Those of us who don’t live on a rural manor might still need a bit of help; according to Merriam-Webster, a dovecote is
A small compartmented raised house or box for domestic pigeons.
Hmm. I took James up on the offer, but wasn’t quite sure what we were getting into.
It turned out that the neighbors in question were stone-masons and had built the pigeonier as a guest-house. It was a four story stone tower with a full kitchen, living room, bath, and gorgeous bedroom at the apex (where the pigeons would have lived had it been a real pigeonier). Pretty awesome.
See many pictures from our trip below (click to enlarge).
We started the summer off with a bang this year and it all still feels a bit like a dream.
In a bizarre turn of events, we were invited to TWO weddings in Europe this summer that happened to be one week apart and relatively close to each other physically. The first was in the south of France, not far from Toulouse. The other was in Umbria in central Italy. As part of our policy of doing things that seem impossible (like the road trip to Minnesota with a one-year-old last summer), Sarah and I committed to going and have been working hard all year to make it happen. On June 11 (the day after my duties at school ended) we boarded a plane for Rome!
Our trip divided neatly into three sections:
We spent our first four nights in Vernazza, part of the Cinque Terre in northwest Italy. We were on our own here, getting over jetlag and getting used to the rhythm of travel with a toddler.
Then we flew to Cordes sur Ciel in southern France for James and Eliza’s wedding where we stayed in an ultra-cool pigeon coop.
Finally we spent a week in Macerino, Umbria, for Tyler and Mieka’s wedding.
So as not to overwhelm everybody we’ve divided our photos into three sets to fit with these divisions. This blog entry highlights the first part of the trip, including a few of our favorite photos. Click on any of the photos to see the complete photo album with many more fabulous pictures.
Aside from the pictures, some favorite memories included:
After 22 hours of travel we arrived in Vernazza with little to no sleep. Even with our exhaustion, we were amazed by the town: steep terraced hills, buildings piled on top of each other, vivid colors, staircase “streets”, and a cool breeze blowing in from the Ligurian Sea. We tossed our luggage into our tiny one-room apartment and walked to the waterfront for some pizza and a view of the sunset. Afterwards we all slept for twelve solid hours. (Griffin was great with sleep; we haven’t shared a room with him since co-sleeping as an infant so we were worried.)
On our first day, Griffin awoke from his nap to say, loudly, “Go to the beach? Ok!” (He’s got this thing right now where he poses his favorite ideas as questions and then immediately says “Ok!” as if granting himself permission.) He loved the beach, laughing at the waves, covering himself with sand, and splashing in the water. His tiny little body would get SO cold, though, that we often had to take breaks so that he could return to a normal color.
Vernazza is a town of amazing views. As mentioned above, the streets are all super-narrow, and usually steep. (No cars allowed, since they can’t fit.) Suddenly you will pop around a corner and find a breathtaking vista where you could see much of the town arrayed beneath you (and the terraced vineyards continuing to climb into the sky). We loved the pace of life where we could just wander around, enjoying the views, sampling the food, and splashing at the beach.
We were all mesmerized by the trains. There are two tracks passing through town, but for the most part they are in tunnels in the mountains. The town’s platform is tiny with buildings all around it. Only two or three train cars actually fit on the outdoor platform, so most of the train is in the tunnel on either side when it stops. It’s a bit spooky having to walk through the dark to get on or off the front or rear cars. Many trains on these tracks don’t stop at the small town either, and so they come roaring through at full speed. Before you can hear or see them, a cold wind starts blowing from the tunnel. Everyone grabs their hats, and then the thing comes blazing past, vanishing into the next tunnel. Over the beach there is an expanse of track where the trains are visible again, high up on a masonry wall. Something about the combination of medieval architecture and the constant trains whipping by reminded me of Miyazaki films with their eclectic mix of technology and magic.
After a week of sub-zero temperatures, we enjoyed a weekend of balmy weather — highs in the 30s on Saturday, and in the high 40s today! Real spring is still a long way off, but today was our first hint of what’s to come. It was a perfect afternoon for snowballs and puddle stomping.
I returned yesterday from an awesome week at Camp Widjiwagan on the shore of Burntside Lake, way up north on the edge of the Boundary Waters. Â I was one of the teacher/chaperons for 35 seventh graders. Â Highlights included:
Cold!  Snow!  Daytime highs were just above zero for the first few days.  (At 7 am Wednesday, the air temp was -24 as I walked to the washhouse to brush my teeth.)  Snow off the trails was often thigh deep.  Remarkably, it was pretty easy to adapt to the temperatures.  The staff gave a great presentation on how to dress, and I never even used my heaviest down coat — I preferred multiple layers of long-johns, fleece, and a wool sweater (with a windbreaker layer on top).
Cross-country skiing. My first time, and I really enjoyed it. Â I joined the kids Tuesday morning for a beginner lesson. Â On Wednesday I went on a longer ski with the adults. Â I generally did alright on the flat trails and climbing hills (awkward, but successful), but going down hills was tough. Â I still don’t quite understand how to control speed and direction on a narrow trail.
Snow-shoeing. We went out for a fairly long snow-shoeing hike and my legs are still sore. Â Next year I think I’ll bring my own snowshoes which are lighter than the ones at the camp (I plan on taking them out for a long walk tonight to see how they compare). Â This hike included a spectacular stop for lunch at the top of a bluff overlooking a frozen lake. Â We met up with a group of students up there and had lunch around a fire in the snow, with a truly stunning view.
Bonding with the kids. Â From a teacher’s perspective, this was such a rare opportunity to really get to know kids outside of the classroom. This was especially valuable for me because I teach eighth grade, so not only were most of the kids new to me, but many of them will be my students next year. Â It’s heartening to see students surprise themselves when they are pushed out of their comfort zones. Â Moreover, I love seeing kids who struggle in the classroom excel in a different setting. Â This always makes me think about how I can push myself to make my classroom even more inclusive of different learning styles and aptitudes.
Storytelling. The boys in my cabin were super excited about hearing bedtime stories (scary ones, in particular).  On Monday night we all shared whatever quick ghost stories we knew from memory.  On Tuesday they asked me to come up with something for them.  This was a real treat for me, because I love stories and I especially enjoy the art of storytelling.  I began with a retelling of the 1902 classic, “The Monkey’s Paw” by W. W. Jacobs.  I changed the setting to reflect our surroundings (a cabin in the northern Minnesota wilderness), but otherwise kept it largely the same.  On Wednesday we moved on to one of my favorite horror authors, H. P. Lovecraft.  I retold “Pickman’s Model,” but again moved it to Minnesota and narrated it as if the artist had been real, and I had known him personally.  (When it ended, and I pulled the door shut, a student called out nervously, “Wait, Mr. Roy, did that really happen?”  Yay!)  For Thursday I sketched out a story based on the Native American Wendigo legend, but after the sauna experience (see below), I was too tired to do real improv.  I offered, instead, to read one of the all-time classics, Lovecraft’s “The Call of Cthulhu“.  The story, alas, was too long (and the vocabulary too obscure) for a single night’s reading, so I stopped about half way through, with most of the kids asleep on the floor around the wood stove.  As we drove back to Saint Paul on Friday, one of the kids came up to the front of the bus and asked diffidently if I would finish the story for them — they had saved me a seat at the back of the bus!  So, driving through a snowstorm, with faces peering over and between the seats, we all finished the masterpiece together.  (There was a moment in the reading — one of the kid’s foreheads scrunched up, trying to parse Lovecraft’s baroque vocabulary — when I felt a sense of rightness, like this was exactly what I was supposed to be doing with my life.)
The Sauna / Dip in the Freezing Lake. This is the legendary culmination of the Widji experience: a hot sauna and a plunge through a hole in the thick ice of Burntside Lake. Â I was nervous about it all week, truthfully, and in the moments before the icy plunge I considered it a very real possibility that I would be the first person at Widji to drop dead upon hitting the water. Â (I have never managed to outgrow this sort of mental melodrama.) Â As it turned out, my first shocked words upon rising above the surface were, “Oh, this isn’t so bad!” Â And, really, it wasn’t. Â (Some people make the whole experience significantly more painful by jumping in the water before going into the sauna, but that seems excessively masochistic to me.) Â Heating up in the sauna first was, naturally, wonderful. Â My muscles relaxed and sweat was literally pouring off of me. Â After ten minutes or so, I was ready to rinse off, and the icy water was a perfect way to do it. Â I wouldn’t want to lounge around in the water, obviously, but it was truly invigorating. Â Afterwards I felt almost euphoric, and my body temperature was still high enough that the freezing wind over the lake felt like a warm breeze. Â Sitting by the fire afterwards, my body felt as relaxed as if I had just had a luxurious massage. Â I wouldn’t hesitate to repeat the experience.
In summary, it was an incredible week! Â I’ve told my principal that she can count on me to volunteer for this every year. Â (They actually have a hard time getting teachers to go.)
One sad thing: I didn’t bring a camera! Â I don’t know what I was thinking, because it was utterly gorgeous up there. Â I took a few photos on my iPhone on Friday morning before getting on the bus (and found another one on Google images) just to give you a sense of the place.
The Wash House — just up the hill from the four cabins. Note the unbelievable blanket of snow on the roof!
Snowshoe rack between the two boys’ cabins.
This is from the rear of my cabin. In the foreground is a field where we practiced skiing before hitting the trails. Beyond the trees is the northern arm of Burntside Lake.
From my porch to the back porch of the other boys’ cabin. (The girls’ cabins are in the trees, just out of sight.)
The main road through camp. Â This photo is obviously not from my iPhone, but I’m including it because it captures the beauty better than any of my muted pics. (From Widji’s Flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/widjiwagan/4341071094/)
On Wednesday, December 23 2009, Anthony Roy and Gena Lee were joined in marriage. The ceremony took place at 11:15am on a hill overlooking Neko Harbour on the continent of Antarctica. The ceremony was attended by the ship’s captain, the hotel manager, another crew member, and curious passengers who were passing by. It was followed by champagne, after which the couple “took their first plunge” by sliding down a snow slope holding hands.
This is all we know at the moment, though Anthony says they have a cool video of the event that they will share when they return. In the meantime, I poked around on the web to find out anything I could about Neko Harbour. According to Wikipedia:
Neko Harbour is an inlet on the Antarctic Peninsula on Andvord Bay, situated on the west coast of Graham Land. Neko Harbour was discovered by Belgian explorer Adrien de Gerlache in the early 20th century. It was named for a Norwegian whaling boat, the Neko, which operated in the area between 1911 and 1924.
So where exactly is it? After a bit more poking around, I located it on some on-line maps. The first map below shows the Antarctic Peninsula. Andvord Bay (with Neko Harbour) isn’t marked, but I’ve added red arrows to show approximately where it lies—on the coast behind Anvers Island. The second map is from another source and shows Andvord Bay in detail.
Antarctic Peninsula (the red arrows show the approximate location of Andvord Bay)
Detailed map of Andvord Bay, showing Neko Harbour.
I did a google images search for Neko Harbour just to get a visual sense of the place. It is a common stop on Antarctic cruises, so there were a fair amount to choose from. Here’s a selection of my favorites:
Neko Harbour, Antarctica
Gentoo penguins
Gentoo penguins leaping from an iceberg
Iceberg in the Gerlache Strait
One of the nearby glaciers
Sunrise
Wow. A magnificent place for a wedding. We all can’t wait to celebrate with the happy couple when they return!
No, we’re not in Antarctica. But my brother and his fiancée are! On December 18 Anthony and Gena boarded the National Geographic Explorer in Ushuaia, Argentina. They headed across Drake passage to the South Shetland Islands off the Antarctic Peninsula. At some point during the voyage they will be married by the captain of the ship! Our only way of keeping tabs on them is to read the public expedition reports posted on the company website. [Update: they were married on December 23! See the post, “Anthony and Gena are Married!“]
If you’d like to see the expedition reports, click on the following dates. (The pdf archives are permanent copies in case the live versions are ever removed.) I’ll add more as they become available.
Our big Thanksgiving gathering took place in Santa Cruz again this year. The consensus is that Santa Cruz is the best of the various destinations that we’ve been to. It’s close. It’s beautiful. Rental houses are plentiful and relatively affordable. And there is no shortage of fun. (Plus, nutritionists always recommend riding roller coasters after a 10,000 calorie meal.) Thanks to Nancy for the massive job of organizing the event! Some favorite pictures are below. Click on them to see larger versions or click here to see the full album. (You may notice a slight parental bias in picture subjects…)
We’ve been neglectful blogging parents lately, but Griffin’s been making so many leaps developmentally, we can hardly keep up. Over Thanksgiving break in Santa Cruz, despite the slippery tile floors of the rental house, Griffin learned to crawl. Andrew was witness to the first official crawl (and burned his Thanksgiving cheesecakes in the midst of the excitement), as well as the first official pull-up-to-standing. It’s so amazing that Andrew has been around for these developmental milestones in spite of the fact that he’s working full time!
We had only one week between Griffin’s crawling victory and pulling up to standing, so we’re frantically baby-proofing much higher than we thought we’d initially have to. Actually, I think baby-proofing is a misnomer. It should be baby-not-going-to-get-hurt-too-badly-if-he-comes-into-contact-with-this…-ing. Thankfully he’s not very fast yet, but it’s only a matter of time.