We ended our trip with four nights in a paradisical spot on Spain’s southern coast. Frigiliana (pronounced free-he-lee-YAH-nah) is one of the famed Pueblos Blancos (“White Towns”) of southern Spain, so called because the buildings are all whitewashed to reflect the intense summer sun. (There’s interesting history to it, too, having to do with the plagues that ravaged the area historically.)

Frigiliana sits a few miles inland from the coastal town of Nerja, and about 1000 feet higher in the mountains. Nerja is a bustling beach town now, but historically it was a small fishing village. Most people lived further inland to keep safe from coastal raiders. Indeed, you can still see watchtowers along the coast that would light fires to warn of coming attacks.

Temperatures were a bit cooler in Frigiliana than further inland, moderated somewhat by proximity to the sea, elevation, and breezes. The sun, though, remained incredibly intense. The whitewashed buildings help keep things cool, but you definitely need sunglasses during the day because everything reflects so much light.

We divided out time in Frigiliana between exploring the town and taking trips to the coast. We spent Sunday afternoon at a crowded beach in the heart of Nerja. The water was wonderful, but the number of people was overwhelming. On Tuesday, we went further east along the coast where we met a guide who took us on a hike past one of the watchtowers to an isolated cove for some snorkeling. This was Oliver’s first time snorkeling and after a bit of practice, he loved it. We spotted countless fish, anemones, crabs, and other sea life. Afterward, we hiked to another public beach (much less crowded than Nerja), and enjoyed ourselves exploring the rocks and tidepools.